In 1995, I made a remarkable journey from Thailand to Siem Reap, Cambodia, wedged into the back of a very dilapidated pick up truck, alongside a crèche of younger travelers. Needless to say it was an extremely uncomfortable, hot, dusty, dry and totally insane adventure. After 14 long hours, we arrived at a small inviting guest house at 1.00am. (prearranged so that we were too exhausted to look for another!) .
But my love affair with Cambodia started from that moment. The family that ran the guest house epitomized every thing about the Cambodian people. Their kindness, their deep concern for your well being, their true friendship, their good humour and their beautiful wide open smile endeared them to me for ever. The family have been my best friends ever since.

At that time, the country had no major roads, and indeed very few made-up roads, even in the capital Phnom Penh. The country was emerging from years of strife and its infrastructure was seriously neglected. However, the seeds of a viable tourist industry were beginning to grow.

This fragile country has suffered more than most. A French colony, it declared independence in 1953. From US bombing during the Vietnam war, to the madness of Pol Pot (under whose 'guidance' around 3 million poor soles died in terrible circumstances). Cambodia has emerged, after several bouts of civil unrest, as a peaceful country under the leadership of Premier Huan Sen.

So what do you find when you visit this intriguing country? It is certainly less well developed than its neighbours (apart from Laos). There is still great poverty and suffering; but the people have an amazing ability to smile through their problems. For tourists there is hardly any problem with crime.. it is very safe.

So now there are excellent hotels, good roads and bus transport, amazing sites and attractions, including the wondrous Angkor Wat, Sihanoukville (Pattaya 30 years ago). The killing fields and torture school are sad reminders of the past. Excellent small and large restaurants cater for most palates. Entertainments are varied and growing.

Phnom Penh is the city that invites, intrigues, interests, instructs and inspires. Here, the nascent gay scene is to be enjoyed. I have always found Cambodian people to be largely gay friendly. Now, with the emergence of gay bars and gay friendly night life the boys of Cambodia are becoming more bold and accessible. However, there is a quiet dignity amongst the boys not often seen in their Thai counterparts!

This country needs you, and you will find yourself needing it. Flights from Bangkok are frequent and now very cheap thanks to low cost airlines (Air Asia..3 to 4000 Baht RT). So forget the Visa runs and make it the run to Cambodia's pleasures.

Blue Chilli Pub.....No 36,Street 178,next to National Museum, Phnom Penh. Very gay friendly.